SHERMATANG TO CHHIME
| LEAVING CHHIMI WITH FULMAYA AND MAYA |
As we leave Shermatang,
Yongjen puts a kada around our necks and wishes us all the best for the
journey. Both she and her husband are
extremely outgoing people and have a habit of shouting at each other from early morning, not in
anger but as a way of having a conversation. I’ve never heard anyone talk so
loudly on the phone. She reminds me of
my mother who, when phoning abroad, would shout into the phone as if the
distance weakens the signal.
The journey begins with huffing and puffing up a steep slope to the main path which leads on to the track
to Chhime. So on we head off under a burning sun
with the sound of the cicadas in the trees loudly celebrating the new morning.
We walk past the Mountain
View Lodge, twenty-four hour hot water, and
the Himalayan Lodge with its camping place.
Most of the terraces are planted with wheat which has a beautiful golden
hue in the sunrise. Bright yellow
flowers are dotting the terraces above
the path.
We had taken three boys to
help us with our bags and they have run ahead of us struggling up the path, even
although we’re travelling light, past a dense cane forest and terraces that are
overgrown with grass and weeds as if they have been lying fallow for a long
time. We are walking from Shermatang at over 9,000 feet to Chhime at just under
9,000 feet.
There is a thin mist
hanging over the valleys and there is a sense of the vastness of the land as if
the cover of land had been stretched wrenching the hills apart. I say hills, but these are not even the
foothills which begin to the north at above 15,000 feet. This is so much different from the dark,
narrow, Scottish valleys I’m used to. Patches of thick, green, jungle forests
rise steeply to my right. Lines of
white, prayer flags decorate the trees further up.
Today the mountains are
obscured by clouds and the paths are dusty and dry with a very fine, light
brown, sandy soil that rises in puffs as we walk and cover the bottoms of our
trousers. We pass the occasional land
slip caused by the monsoon rains, or was it an earthquake that caused the land
to flow into the valley? Looking at the
dense forest I can see that there will be black bears in there. A while ago a man was attacked by one and had
to have his stomach stitched by the locals before being flown by helicopter to
a hospital in Kathmandu.
In the valley below there
is the muffled sound of a drum and the blowing of Tibetan horns.
| PRAYER FLAGS AT SUNSET |
Dropping by 500 feet makes
a difference as the breathing has become a lot easier now
A large gomba is being
built and rises to 3-stories. I wonder why
so much money is being spent on these temples when there are surely much more
necessary developments on which to concentrate – like education which is very
important for the children of which there are many.
We come to a sign with
Tibetan script at the top and a transcription in English below: CHHIMI
HEIGHT 8,202 FEET PROMOTED BY NORBULING RURAL DEVELOPMENT SOCIETY.
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