MO MO A GO GO

MO MOS ARE ADDICTIVE

There's no doubt about it, once tasted, never forgotten.  Personally speaking, the best mo mos to be had are at Dharara in Kathmandu.  Legend has it that Jung Bahadur Rana, a former ruler of Nepal, took his horse up to the top of the tower and goaded the horse into jumping off.  The horse died and JBR survived. His name is also used for home-made alcohol, Have a glass of Jung Bahadur or give yourself some courage. 

At the mo mo counter next to the tower you buy a voucher and go to a nearby kitchen where you'll be served in one-minute with a plate of hot mo mos in a kind of spicy sauce with peanuts.  There is a range of non-veg mo mos and noodles.  Try them next time you're here.

Dharara

ACHAR

It can't be anything else but subjective. Once a week I would go down to Dharara in Kathmandu and shop for pickles. This Sikh stood in a doorway and hawked the best achar I've ever tasted. He told me his mother made them. As a testament to their succulent flavour, no matter how much I bought, they would always finish after a few days.

There is a point to this. No matter how poor a Sikh is , they will never beg for food or money. They will do anything to preserve their dignity: work in a factory; service and drive a truck; serve in a shop. Although, I've seen them work as pilots and architects. A prouder people you won't find anywhere.

Also, they don't smoke. I've never met a Sikh who smokes, unless they have denied their religion by giving up the five Ks: khes (uncut hair); Kara (the wearing of a steel bracelet); kanga (wearing a wooden comb in the hair); kaccha (wearing cotton underwear); and kirpan (having a steel sword or knife).

But they do like their drink. I have fond memories of frequenting a Punjabi restaurant in Kichha Pokhari (dead dog pond in Newari) on a hot summer's day and eating chilli vegetable with rum and coke and fried potato parata on the side.