Showing posts with label Panauti. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Panauti. Show all posts

Tuesday, 2 October 2012

THE ROAD TO PANAUTI


THE ROAD TO PANAUTI





Raju Lama, my guide

Looking forward to visiting the town of Panauti after about twenty-five years.  I last visited with Colin Touche, a volunteer from Nova Scotia. He came as part of a cultural exchange programme through Canadian Crossroads International of which I was an assistant to Fulmaya who was the country rep.  Colin and I decided to visit Panauti because of a boarding pupil, Deepak Choulagain at Fulmaya’s school, Ideal, whom he was sponsoring.  Deepak’s mother had passed away and his father had remarried.


Harvested rice stalks drying in the sun
We got the bus to Banepa then walked the rest of the way to the family house half way up a steep hill.  The house was quite basic with a veranda and a few acres of land on which the father grew corn and some rice, as far as I can remember.
We stayed for a meal and I can remember a lot of laughter coming from the kitchen as his wife and another woman prepared our lunch.  Out came the food, eventually, to howls of laughter from the two-women.  At the side of the plate was a little bowl of some brown paste.  This, we were told, was ganjako gerako achar, or cannabis seed pickle.  This explained the laughter from the kitchen and increased our appetites ten-fold. 

Ganja on the roadside
After the meal, he brought out a large branch of ganja and explained that this was for the cow.  Apparently, the cow ate the ganja and increased its hunger, produced more milk and everybody, including the cow, was happy.
This time round, I wasn’t sure of the road to the town, so I hired a guide for Rs500 (about £3.60) and got on the road at 06.30.  The journey took us through the villages of Sanku, Naubisi, Suntan and eventually on to Panauti.
From afar I could see that the town was a lot larger than I remembered it to be.  

The cremation
As we came to the river, the first thing I noticed was smoke coming from as small temple and realised this was a cremation. The burning of bodies in Nepal is always a very open and public event and the road beside the ghat was filled with people going to work and children going to school, unconcerned about the early-morning cremation. I asked Raju, my guide, if it would be OK to take a few pictures and he said, Of course!  There very few restrictions about taking photographs of people and events.



We asked around a few shops about the Humagains but we quickly found out that there were hundreds of families by this name and our chances of finding the house I had visited twenty-five years ago had dwindled to zero pretty quickly. 

After a meal, we returned half way along the road we had come on a ramshackle bus on which we had to stand.  Looking around there was a baby at the breast, a family four occupying a seat and a bunch of young boys at the back, everybody bouncing in unison as the bus trundled along over potholes, ruts and boulders. 

We got off at the end of the road and started the long climb back to Namo Buddha.  At a well, I sent Raju off to get some water and thought I would go ahead in my own, slow way.  

At the top of a ridge I sat down and waited for 15-minutes for him to arrive, but he never did and I climbed the rest of the hill alone. 

When I eventually got to the stupa, bedraggled and sweating, there was Raju looking fresh and serving an Israeli couple of which there are a large number who, when leaving the army or just deciding to travel, head towards China, Thailand, India and Nepal.  Apparently, Raju had taken a shortcut which I must have missed.

Moral of the story: don’t expect things to be the same as they were twenty-five years ago; don’t overestimate your capability of trekking in Nepal as even some of the lesser hills are steeper than the steepest hills in Scotland; and never ever separate from you guide.


Not our bus!

Monday, 1 October 2012

NAMO BUDDHA


NAMO BUDDHA


NAMA BUDDHA STUPA
Coming in a taxi from Kathmandu we finally ascend what may be the most badly maintained road I have ever been on.  From the beginning I worry about the suspension and the tyres on the old vehicle; but the driver doesn’t seem worried at all and appears to know every rut and pothole on the road.  The ruts are up to half a metre deep and as well as potholes there are small boulders sprinkled around.  At times, the car is lying at a 45 degree angle.  

For reasons beyond my ken, we arrive at the top after the one and a half hour steep ascent with the suspension and exhaust intact:  and the driver sometimes makes two-journeys a day from the capital. The last 500-metres are paved and we arrive at the Namo Buddha monastery with some relief though slightly addlepated by the journey.

The gompa is built on the site where Buddha in a previous life offered his body to a tiger and her five cubs and then returned to be born in Lumbini as Gautama, the crown prince of a stately family.  At the top of a hill annexing the main centre is an endearing platform on which an inexplicably black Buddha sits with a knife in front of the tigress while its “children” are huddled together in a line, not looking the least bit concerned about the fact that Buddha seems about to cut off a limb to feed the mother. I suppose, why should they? 




The main temple sits on a hill and is surrounded by a warren of residences for the monks, a school for several hundred little monks and numerous other multi-storied teaching halls and residences for the rinpoches and visiting lamas.  One hall in particular seems to be particularly sacred with a large Tara idol and glass cases containing various aspects of gods and goddesses in poses of enlightenment. 

Our bedroom is on a northern perimeter next to a corn field.  From the flat roof reached by a spiral staircase, its central pole topped by a large, black metal umbrella, we should be able to see the full range of the Himalayas but so far have only been able to view an adumbrated outline with the snowy peaks jutting through the clouds in the morning.  

Tonight is a full moon and there is some hope that the clouds will disperse and we may see the range though this is doubtful as the monsoon is still in its last throes.

The wall paintings in the gompa are a feast for the eye.  There are depictions of previous saints – Atisha, Gampopa, Marpa – as well as black-hatted Karmapas.  I was pleased to see the thirteenth Karmapa whose name I was given when I took refuge, Yeshe Dorje.  He reigned from 1676 to 1702 and died at the young age of 26 though he managed to do a lot for the revival of Buddhism in Tibet.   

This morning there was a special puja in the main temple for the full moon that lasted for a few hours though half way through my knees seized up and I had to leave, walking like Groucho Marx without the cigar. The energy level was extremely high with lots of banging of a drum, cymbals and bells.  The main Lama chanted through a microphone in a deep bass voice that literally shivered in the solar plexus. 

Now I sit in the kitchen surrounded by freshly cooked food waiting for Fulmaya to return from her prostrations and looking forward to tomorrow when I leave early for a 3-hour trek to Panauti to visit a student I taught about 25-years ago, Deepak Humagain. I was last there with Colin Touche from Nova Scotia and remember quite distinctly having cannabis seed achar and a corn-cob chillum with his father. Sweet memories.   

  

RANDON THOUGHTS

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